Do you want to melt the metal? Yes? Want to melt metal free of charge with recycled oil? Hell yeah! ! Here\'s an easy-to- Make burners that can use propane or oil (Vegetables or cars). It will heat the furnace to the melting temperature of aluminum, no problem. Safety talk- Yes, we play fire here. Use your head. OK? Components of the burner: blower- I got it from an extra place. The more air it moves, the more fire you can generate. Anything of this size is OK. My rated power is 100 cfm ( Cubic feet per minute)1 1/4\" dia. steel pipe 18\"-24\" ish long. Size is not important. I\'m not going to go. though. 30 \"of 1/4\" dia copper pipe hose clamp (optional) 1 male propane quick release accessory. Get this from the propane supply. Do not use only air hoses for quick release. Other things you need: propane tank with adjustable regulator and hose with female propane quick release 5 gallon barrel plastic valve with 3/8 \"accessory transparent polyester tube 3/8\" Teflon tube belt tool: drill tap for propane accessories torch and brazing rod. It doesn\'t have to be big even if the jeweler torch works. Metal Cutting saw various manual tools drill a large enough hole about 2/3 behind the front of the steel pipe for tapping propane fittings. Screw it on the connector. Seal with Teflon tape or duct compound. Now drill the second hole 90 degrees from the propane accessory wide enough to insert the copper tube. You may want to file it into an oval shape to help the copper slip through. The more appropriate, the less brazing you have to do. Nevertheless, feed the copper tube until the end is flush with the front of the burner pipe. I put on a hose card to secure the copper pipe and provide strain relief. Seal the copper pipe to the steel pipe. I would recommend you to weld with copper, but you will probably do it with tin or even silicone. Only the tip of the burner becomes very hot. Now you need to connect the burner to the fan. How you connect it depends on the fan you get. For this fan, I cut a piece of wood close to the end of the fan, and then drilled a hole in it that matched the outer diameter of the pipe. I put a few screws in the block and fixed it on the fan housing, but as a friction fit, I just left the burner pipe. I also made a sheet metal damper for more air control. The first time you use refractory cement, you need to ignite the refractory cement in the stove very slowly, so I made a very small flame for the air door If you want to have one on your burner, cut a crack in the upper half of the burner tube, and there is a chop saw next to where it meets the blower. Then cut a damper from the plywood and slide into it. I used this for the first time. After that, I took out the air door and slid the burner tube back into sufficient position so that the slot was covered with wooden blocks to prevent air from leaking out. Oil needs to evaporate in order to burn. Some burners use oil pumps, micro nozzles and high pressure air to evaporate oil before the oil enters the furnace. We didn\'t do this because then I would have to change the title of this \"visible\" to a complex double fuel stove burner. This burner uses a lazy method. We first use propane to make the stove hot enough to make the oil evaporate. Once the furnace reaches the temperature, we turn on the gravity feed that delivers oil to the burner. The oil flows from the end of the copper tube, evaporates from the heat and ignites. Once the oil burner is up, you can turn the propane off and use only cheap/free stuff. The propane side of the supply fuel uses a propane tank with an adjustable regulator. The BBQ tank is good, but the non-adjustable regulator that comes with it doesn\'t work well for this. I use a hose to quickly release to the burner. You can also put it together with the steel pipe. Safety first! Make sure you use a device designed for gas! Do not cheat and use air hoses. No one likes a gas leak and propane will degrade the air hose. Oil side drill, threaded a hole for the 3/8 valve in a 5 gallon barrel. . I also made a \"nut\" with clay plastic and fixed it inside. A transparent tube is attached. If you are lucky, the tube will stick to the copper pipe. If there is no proper plumbing hardware, connect the two. Fill the tank with used oil or vegetable oil. When you pour in, pass it through a piece of cloth. You just don\'t want any big blocks to plug the valve. As long as the tank is higher than the burner, it will refuel well to the burner. Now that we \'ve put all the parts together, let\'s mix some hydrocarbons with oxygen to produce a nice, juicy heat release. I hit the stove with the torch. In this way, I can stay away from fiddling with controls instead of sticking my face and hands near the burner when the burner is lit. Open the fan first. Light the torch ( I used a rag soaked in WD. 40 tied to a metal rod with wire) Stick it in the stove. Open the propane tank. Adjust to the flame coming out of the stove, some but not much. When you have a flame of joy, you can judge by sound. Open the valve once the furnace has a dim red color (just a little) Go to the tank. There will be quite a lot of flames from both fuel sources. Close the propane tank and adjust the oil flame. If you have adjusted the oil supply correctly, there should be no smoke. Play with fire until the oil runs out. Here are a few items I have made with my metal casting furnace. This is my first note: Valentine\'s Day gift wrapped together. Another photo is a large drill guide I made while working at National Park Services plus some action shooting Metal Casting You should do that. When you use this burner to burn waste oil, there is almost no cost to melt the metal. Go here and learn how to build the rest of the stove. . . . Like projects? Look at our blog. Mike and Molly\'s house, where we recorded our Great project at the mini farm. Thanks! !